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Ralph
Club Member
Joined: 22/Feb/2010 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 73 |
![]() Topic: Chrome plating wheel rimsPosted: 04/Mar/2010 at 11:14pm |
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I am fed up with the expense of getting chroming done, so today I approached a couple of local platers with a view to getting chrome stripped and re plated. I intend to do my own polishing as that is where a huge amount of the cost is. I was asking for sample prices and thought that wheel rims should be reasonably representitive of their pricing. The first company told me that they won't chrome wheel rims, stating that the process weakens the rims. I've never heard this before and the second company had no issues with it.
Has anyone else heard that re-chroming wheel rime weakens them? |
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Ralph Ferrand
Z1000A1 1977, Sprint ST 955i, FJ1200, RD250B 1975 Membership number 2284 |
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foy9999
Club Member
Joined: 07/Aug/2009 Location: Scotland Online Status: Offline Posts: 322 |
![]() Posted: 07/Mar/2010 at 1:17am |
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I've heard that if the wheels are rusty around the spoke holes and the polishing process thins those area further it can make them unuseable as the spokes could pull thru. I t depends how rusty the rim is I reckon.
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Yamahas: CS3B replica, YAS3 L-reg, RD125?/RD125A? M-reg, RD250C Jersey import (not reg'd in UK yet), Honda SS50ZK1 P-reg.
Hillman Imp E-reg, Daimler Double-Six Vanden Plas M-reg, VW Polo A-reg |
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sparrow
Newcomer
Joined: 21/Jan/2010 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 4 |
![]() Posted: 12/Mar/2010 at 10:32pm |
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Ralph. I've had the same idea about doing my own polishing. However although i do polishing of aluminium with buffing wheels etc I'm not certain whether its the same thing with steel for re-plating. I was told you just use polish designed for steel. It would be much appreciated if you could tell me a bit about the process.
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Ralph
Club Member
Joined: 22/Feb/2010 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 73 |
![]() Posted: 13/Mar/2010 at 12:42am |
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Hi, to be honest polishing is very simple. You remove material using different grades of abrasives until you get a smooth surface. I am uste you will have heard of the different grades of abrasive papers eg wet and dry where 1000 grit is fairly fine and say 60 grit is pretty coarse. The grit size refers to the number of grits per a specific distance. To be honest I don't know the strict definition but is doesn't really matter. With wet and dry the 'grits' are stuck to a paper where as with a polish they are suspended in a solution in the case of 'brasso' or in the case of a buffing polish the grits are suspended in a 'soap' which is transfered to a buffing wheel where the friction generates heat which melts the 'soap' making the polish into a viscous liquid.
The bottom line is that to polish a piece of metal that has seen some action over the years you have to smoothly remove metal til younreach the bottom of all the scratches. you might start with afilea and then work your way down through the various grits of abrasive papers and then though the various grades of polish. You use different types of buffing mop for the different grades of polish. Usually for rough stuff you will start with a coarse polish ( often brown ) using a sisal mop (like cut string) then move onto a sewn cloth mop with a medium polish and finally use an open linen mop with a fine grade polish. The problem with polishing critical stuff like wheel rims is that to get a good finish you have to remove metal to the depth of the deepest rust pits, obviously making the material thinner than The manufacturer intended. Polishing is hugely expensive because it is very time consuming. Wheel rims especially, it is often cheaper to buy 'pattern' replacement rims, but many restorers don't want to don't want to do this as it spoils the originality of the bike. Ralph |
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Ralph Ferrand
Z1000A1 1977, Sprint ST 955i, FJ1200, RD250B 1975 Membership number 2284 |
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foy9999
Club Member
Joined: 07/Aug/2009 Location: Scotland Online Status: Offline Posts: 322 |
![]() Posted: 13/Mar/2010 at 2:46am |
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This is all well and true but looking at it from the plater's point of view their chemicals will remove the rust so you don't need to polish it out and then they will polish the surrounding metal well without obliviating the pits from the rust then they will minimise the pits with the copper depositing and polish everything back down again to a sort of intermediate level then and apply the chrome so you will end up with a completely derusted part with a bit of 'filling off' the rust pits followed by a nice chrome finish on a pretty smooth base rather than a chrome finish on a piece which has been polished paper-thin mechanically,
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Yamahas: CS3B replica, YAS3 L-reg, RD125?/RD125A? M-reg, RD250C Jersey import (not reg'd in UK yet), Honda SS50ZK1 P-reg.
Hillman Imp E-reg, Daimler Double-Six Vanden Plas M-reg, VW Polo A-reg |
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